West Street Grill

American Pasta-ral
West Street Grill, Litchfield
November 2023

So many garbage “best of” lists come out so often from so many outlets, it’s best to ignore them all.

Unless, of course, that source is a well-researched “1,000 Places to See Before You Die” book that spans the entire country by Patricia Shultz. For any Connecticut place to make that cut is a bit of an accomplishment. Enough for me to include the list on this never-nominated for any best-of anything site, eat at the restaurants, and attempt to write about them.

Even if I’m not remotely qualified to do so.

I am, however, qualified to eat good food. And there aren’t too many better places to do that than West Street Grill, located in the center of Litchfield.

I’ve eaten here several times and each experience has been pretty great. Sure, you’d expect that from a higher end restaurant like West Street, but the vibe here is so relaxed and so comfortable, you just don’t feel like you’re in some chic-chic joint. And really, when one of the most beloved and longest-retained menu items is called “peasant bread,” you know this place isn’t snooty.

Let’s hear from them:

West Street Grill has been providing cultured fine dining in the Litchfield Hills for 30 years as one of America’s first great regional restaurants, serving creative modern cuisine to discerning guests from the worlds of finance, real estate, the law, business and the arts.

The restaurant is located in historic and scenic Litchfield, one of the state’s top tourist destinations, drawing visitors from across Connecticut, the Berkshires of Massachusetts and metropolitan New York City.

For the record, I love Litchfield, but is it really a top tourist destination? I don’t think so. Also weird that they list out all those traditionally stuffy white people careers. But Litchfield is a pretty stuffy white people town, so it makes sense I guess. (To be clear, the ever-present owner is known as one of the nicest guys in the business; I’m not implying otherwise.)

West Street Grill owner James O’Shea enriches the restaurant with his nonpareil Irish hospitality.

You see? Because everyone knows what nonpareil means. (I can’t lie, I love this whole blurb from their site.)

West Street is a survivor in a tough business. It opened in the spring of 1990 in what was then a fairly empty Litchfield Center. (It’s crazy to think that now perhaps, but my hometown of West Hartford was similar in 1990 as far as restaurants are concerned.) The aforementioned O’Shea and the late Charles Kafferman sought to change what Litchfield was, starting with their little bistro.

Back then, menus with lighter, healthier fare – not to mention ingredients from local farms – weren’t much of a thing in rural Connecticut. “Localvore” dining is such a thing now that it’s more or less expected at certain restaurants. This was not the case in the 1990’s, but O’Shea brought the “fresh and local” idea from his native Ireland where that was the norm.

Since opening, The Grill has become a favorite of many, including the famous people who live nearby like Meryl Streep. And those who lived here like Philip Roth.

This is the type of place that you’d see Streep dining with her husband in a booth and just be like, “Hey, that lady looks like Meryl Streep but whatever, this is Connecticut and we don’t hassle people here so let’s just sit down and eat.” After all, no one bothered me, the famous CTMQ Writer Guy, as I ate alone while reading a book.

(Actual, talented, famous Pulitzer winning writer Philip Roth was besties with the late co-owner Charlie Kafferman. The great American novelist was a regular at the Grill, and some of his personal award/art collection is displayed at the restaurant.)

With an Irish owner/chef and a rather American menu, The Grill feels Parisian. From the green awning over the al fresco tables to the paintings on the walls, the only thing missing is cigarette smoke. I ordered the famous peasant bread and a smoked salmon benedict on avocado toast – and some promised fish and chips to go for my wife and child.

WSG’s Parmesan Aioli Peasant Bread starter is legendary, a classic since 1990 that never leaves the menu – lest O’Shea wants a revolt. It’s meant to be shared, of course, but I was just as happy to devour the entire plate myself. It’s meant to be eaten warm and fresh after all… sorry wife and child.

Cutting to the chase, my main dish was one of the finest plates I ate in all of 2023. Every bite was absolute perfection… to poach eggs perfectly, to nail the Hollandaise sauce, to get the proper toast on the English muffin, all to serve at the perfect temperature is no small trick. Like, we could replicate this dish at home, but every one of those components would be imperfect in some way. Good lord I love this dish.

In the past I’ve had the curry-coconut curry shrimp that always seems to be a special as well as one of the best straight up burgers available in the state. The wine list here is excellent and the service has always been that perfect blend of attentive but not annoying. A sort of relaxed and pleasant service that never screws up.

My fish and chips to go came (Georges Bank cod, lemon aioli, bread-and-butter pickles, lemon & frites) and I was on my way. I know I live in a restaurant-rich town, but I’m still happy to make the trek west every once in a while to enjoy this place.

Is it a place you must patronize “before you die” as the book that brought me here for CTMQ purposes suggests? No, of course not, but it wouldn’t hurt. Especially if you’re about to die and are trying to eat healthier – O’Shea is a vegan and always has a selection of vegetarian and vegan menu options.

Oof, that was a dark way to end this. Philip Roth would be proud.

Some photos from West Street Grill’s Instagram feed.

West Street Grill
CTMQ’s 1,000 places to see in the United States Before You Die List